This bowl started with a black walnut log about 13″ in diameter but only 13″ long. I split it into quarters and was able to get this bowl out of one of those sections. Bark up orientation, so the flow of the growth rings is parallel to the rim.
I still haven’t found a log stretcher, so I decided to nix the handles on this one. With only so much real estate to work with, it was better to have a hollow without handles rather than the other way around. The absence of handles really exposes the exterior ends of the bowl, sort of like cutting your bangs to show off a beautiful forehead.
The layout is basically the same as for the bowl style featured in my video lessons with Elia Bizzarri, so all of the procedures we go through there can be applied directly to this design. When laying out, just reduce the space between the end of the bowl and the hollow to around 3/4″ or so.
In the photo above, the straightforward nature of the layout is evident, allowing you to focus on good execution and the joy of each cut.
And, should you decide to flute the end walls, the same arrangement seen in the photo above works well. You just work in one convex curve instead of transitioning from convex to concave as seen in the photo.
The light in the shot above shows the slight waviness and subtle texture left from the handwork of carving the flutes with the gouge. In this case, I used a #5 18mm gouge.
There is a narrow band below the rim all around the exterior. The flutes exit through it on the ends, creating a wave pattern.
On the sides, I carved a series of fingernail chips. The short series of shots below shows that process.
I used a 4mm #8 gouge.
The fibers along the curved side of the bowl determined the direction of the cuts. In this case, I’m cutting downhill. If you orient the chips in the other direction, you may end up in a fight with the grain.