Branch Crook Choices

Another post about processing crooks. For the others, check the category menu (to the right) under “finding wood.” This time I want to show a couple decisions I made when finding a spoon in a piece of the crazy magnolia branch above.

When I crosscut this bend, I still wasn’t sure which end would be the handle and which would include the bowl. One thing I was almost certain of was that the lower part, the outer part of the bend would not become a spoon at all. The reason has mainly to do with how most crooks form (at least according to my observations).

The sketch shows why the outer part of the bend almost always includes a broken branch stub. Sometimes it’s just the decayed remnants of the branch stub. Sometimes the tree has been able to grow completely over the stub in time. Regardless, the fibers don’t flow unimpeded through the outer bend, but they do through the inner bend.

Back to the chunk of magnolia. The split follows the fibers along the pith.

To the left side of the sharpest part of the bend, the fibers are pretty straight, but to the right side there’s some zig zag going on, especially in that area where the pencil is pointing. Bummer, because I was hoping for that side for the handle because it was a bit longer. But it may have been difficult to deal with. As a side note, you can see the end of the broken branch on the surface of the outer bend.

So I cut the right side short about where I thought the end of the bowl should be.

Then I started working down into the bark side of the inner bend and drew a general layout for a spoon it could hold. Then the usual axe and knife work.

And the resulting spoon.

Posted in finding wood, green woodworking, Uncategorized | Tagged | 2 Comments

9 Spoons

A little more color in this group, partly because of the wood species of the crooks I found and partly because I was itching to experiment more with milk paint. So, all of the paint on these is milk paint, then the whole spoon treated with pure refined linseed oil and kiln-cured. All surfaces are straight from the knife except for the inside of the bowl of #8.

If you’re interested in purchasing, send me an email at dandkfish@gmail.com and let me know which spoon(s) you’d like, and if you’d prefer to send a check or receive a PayPal invoice. I’ll get back to you to confirm that the spoon is still available. Prices include shipping in the U.S. International shipping will be an added charge, but probably not much. I’ll post individual photos of each spoon further down. Thanks for looking.

Four of these spoons came from this magnolia branch that someone had tossed aside. Nice wood for spoons. I’ll share some photos of the splitting and other processes in a future post. This one’s already going to be long enough. Here are the spoons:

#1: Cherry (sapwood) Eating Spoon, 7 1/2″ x 1 3/16″. With a little green finial. $110 includes shipping. SOLD

#2: Silver Maple, 8 3/4″ x 2″. With one independent fish. $160 includes shipping. SOLD

#3: Magnolia, 7 1/2″ x 2 1/4″. “Hold Me” serving spoon. $175 includes shipping. SOLD

#4: Cherry (sapwood), 12 1/2″ x 2 1/8″. A nice cooker/server with a tapering line of chip carving wrapping around the back end of the handle. $160 includes shipping. SOLD

#5: Magnolia, 11″ x 2 1/4″. I had moonrise in mind. Deep bowl with a lot of crank. $170 includes shipping.

#6: Red Maple, 12″ x 1 7/8″. A slender server/ladle with a red ball finial. $150 includes shipping. SOLD

#7: Magnolia, 11″ x 2 1/4″. Sunrise. Deep bowl with a lot of crank. $170 includes shipping. SOLD

#8: Sugar Maple, 7 1/4″ x 1 1/2″. This one came from a tight little crook. As I started carving it, I was wondering what such a small ladle form could be used for. The thought of dipping olives from a jar or bowl was what came to mind. The lettering and finial followed. The hard maple holds the detail of the small letters well. A quirky little spoon for sure. $190 includes shipping. SOLD

#9: Magnolia Eating Spoon, 6 1/2″ x 1 1/8″. It was the pin knot on the handle of this short eating spoon that sparked the chip-carved design. Like ripples on a pond. $120 includes shipping. SOLD

Posted in paint, spoons, Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 6 Comments

Nine in the (New) Kiln

I’ve mentioned before that I use a light bulb kiln to cure the oil on my spoons and bowls. My old kiln got kicked around a bit during the move, so I decided to convert my old shop heater cover into a new kiln. You can get really fancy, but anything that holds some heat in will work. So, just a box with a porcelain light bulb fixture and a recycled electric cord and plug.

There are nine recently-finished spoons in there. I still have to take some photos, then I plan on posting them for sale Monday.

I used to use incandescent light bulbs. They are being quickly phased out. But I’ve found these reptile aquarium heating elements to work perfectly. You can find them many places easily, including pet stores. The come in different wattages and screw right into a light socket. My kiln is about 4 cubic feet of space, insulated somewhat. I find that the 75 watt element keeps the kiln at about 130 degrees Fahrenheit. According to what I’ve heard, wood can start to degrade over 140 degrees, so I keep it below that. And that’s plenty hot enough to decrease the curing time by at least 20x (for both linseed and tung oil). Of course, a kiln like this can also be used to dry chair rungs and things like that.

My new kiln doesn’t take up much space. It tucks into the corner of the shop where it does double duty as a stand, typically holding a bowl of dog treats and other stuff.

The doors are secured with a wooden toggle controlled by a simple handle on the outside.

Inside, the toggle is really a semicircle with a bit of a spiral shaved off one side to serve as a cam

When the handle moves up, the cam catches behind the top rail of the cabinet and pulls the door tightly closed. The rabbet holds the narrower door to its left closed.

And, this time, I got really fancy and dropped $25 on a digital temperature controller. These things are made for greenhouses, pets, and all sorts of uses. I plug it into the wall, then plug the kiln element cord into it. If the temperature gets over the max setting, then the power is cut to the element. Once the temperature gets below the minimum setting, the power kicks back on. There’s a cord with a temperature sensor that I’ve run through a little hole into the kiln. On the display above, it shows that the ideal temperature has been set to 130 F (+/- 3 degrees, thus the 133 and 127 numbers). The actual temperature is currently showing 129 F.

As it turns out, the combination of my box and the 75 watt element keeps the box at around 130 anyway, without the controller, but it’s still some peace of mind. With a little experimentation with different heating elements, you can manage the temperature without a control.

Or, this time of year, you can do as I often do and just let oiled bowls and spoons sit in the sun on a hot day. Just be sure to wipe off excess oil from the surface before it cures!

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August Class at Galbert’s!

I’ll be teaching a bowl carving course at Peter Galbert’s school in Rollinsford, NH, just 12 miles from the Maine coast, August 12-17, 2024. Pete and I have talked about this possibility for a couple years, and I’m so happy that I’m finally able to do it. The spots will become available on Wednesday, May 8 at 8:00 am. Here’s the link to register, along with the course description, for when the time comes. Registration is handled through the Galbert website.

Galbert’s school overlooking the Salmon Falls River in Rollinsford, NH. Photo from Petergalbert.com.

I’m looking forward to this six-day format at Pete’s, with time to devote to important topics like sharpening, design variations, finishing and so on.

By starting with a dry plank, we’ll be able to go through all of the steps in carving a bowl, including the final details that make such a difference. So, you’ll leave with a beautiful, useful serving bowl like the one in the top photo of this post. But, more importantly, I want you to take home an understanding of concepts and techniques that will allow you to design and make bowls with whatever wood (green or dry) and facilities are available to you. And the know-how to sharpen your tools, and get the most from your compass, and see the potential in a bit of tree. Then throw in the memories of a special week spent creating and sharing laughs with a handful of interesting people.

This is the first time I’ll be teaching this particular course, so I want to maintain some flexibility at this point to respond to ideas as the class approaches and during the class itself. In addition to the main bowl, I envision each student leaving with a sample board of sorts with decorative carving motifs to use on future bowls or other projects. Maybe an additional small project…we’ll see. I’ll have several bowl examples there to explore and discuss. There will be time to respond to your interests and questions as they arise. We’ll all learn a lot and it will be a blast. I know I’m looking forward to the experience. I hope to see you there.

We’re calling the course Bowl Carving Exploration. If the class happens to fill up, make sure to get on the waiting list. That will give me even more reason to go back. And be sure to check out the other courses on the schedule. Pete has an incredible lineup, including a just-added 17th century oak box making/carving course with Peter Follansbee.

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Cherry Bowl Finished

Black Cherry Bowl 18.5″ long x 10.5″ wide x 4″ high

I’ve finished the cherry bowl that I mentioned in my recent Drying Revisited post. The oil has cured and it’s ready to serve. I’ll share a few more shots of the finished bowl below, but first some photos of some of the after-drying carving, which I spend much more time at than the green carving.

Spokeshave to fair the contours.

After paring the final surface of the hollow, I plane the foot flat since it moves during drying. Then I redraw the perimeter of the foot and do the final shaping of the exterior from that edge. This bowl design has four distinct exterior surfaces or “panels” as I sometimes call them. In the photo above, I’m using a spokeshave to finalize the form of the end panels. The junction between the side panels and the ends are a key visual feature.

For this bowl, the side panels were left from the drawknife. The grain direction reverses at the handles, and a knife is particularly nimble for managing the transition.

The end panels were finished with a dappled texture from a shallow gouge.

I worked the upper surface with very fine cuts from a sharp drawknife.

Gramercy holdfasts in use holding a bowl.

I sketched a little tree design then began excavating a shallow hollow in the foot as a canvas. I’ve written about them before, but I don’t know what I’d do without holdfasts.

I finished the foot hollow by carving with the grain. By arranging the holdfasts like this, I was able to push forward while also keeping the forward edge of the bowl from lifting up.

There’s the finished, oiled, bowl from the bottom. There are a few more photos of the bowl below. Of course, being cherry, the color will deepen over time. It’s available for purchase. 18.5″ long x 10.5″ wide x 4″ high. If you’re interested, email me at dandkfish@gmail.com. $975 includes shipping. SOLD Thanks for looking.

Posted in bowls, cherry, holding, tools, Uncategorized | Tagged , | 15 Comments

Joel and the Barrel Knife

Joel Paul hewing a bowl in Buzzard’s Bay, Massachusetts. June 2019

We were wrapping things up at the end of the bowl carving class. Joel Paul and I were talking about bowls and tools when he handed me this:

I had no idea what it was. Heavy. A fancy plumb bob? Joel, with his typical enthusiasm, explained that it was a Swedish barrel knife and proceeded to reveal its secrets.

The knife was made by P. Holmberg in Eskilstuna, Sweden.  Holmberg made these from 1900 to 1950. The slӧyd blade is ingeniously housed in the handle, ready for carrying in a pocket.  By depressing a spring, the brass housing containing the blade can be retracted.  The blade is then flipped forward and the whole assembly pushed through the handle.  The same spring locks the blade in place, ready for carving.  I’ve put together a photo slide show below showing the procedure.

When Joel showed me, it was like a magic show.  Then he explained it was a gift for me. 

Speechless.  I have treasured it and have come to know that this sort of act is typical of Joel.

A few days ago, Joel was helping a neighbor fell a tree.  Things went wrong and Joel was pinned under the tree.  He has been in the hospital since then with extensive and serious injuries.  Joel has a long road ahead, but is feeling the support of his friends, family, and community.  If you can offer any financial support, a gofundme has been set up to help Joel. It will be deeply appreciated.

Posted in tools, Uncategorized | Tagged | 5 Comments

Drying Revisited

Several years ago, I wrote a post outlining my approach to keeping wood green, handling it during the carving process, then letting it dry and so on. As I was carving this bowl recently, I read back through that post. Turns out, not much has changed in the way I go about it.

For this one, I actually recorded the weight over a couple weeks. I usually don’t record the weight so extensively, and often I just go by feel, but it does show how the rate of moisture loss slows over time. There was a loss of about 14g per day over the first few days. A couple weeks later, the rate had slowed to about 2g per day.

Backing up a bit, there are a few shots in the slideshow below, all during the green carving stage before drying.

While that one was drying, I started in on another green chunk of cherry to rough out a hen bowl. It had been awhile, so it was good to revisit the form.

And now that one’s under wraps. I think old bed sheets are about perfect to slow the drying. They’re thin enough to not impede the drying too much, and big enough to wrap in a few layers to slow things down more if necessary.

Hopefully we’ll see both of these bowls further along soon.

Posted in bowls, drying, green woodworking, Uncategorized | Tagged | 10 Comments

Spoon-Size Milk Paint

You don’t need much milk paint to paint a spoon handle. I wanted to have several colors on hand to create a flexible pallet, but didn’t need to buy the colors in packages large enough to paint a chest of drawers. Conveniently, both the Real Milk Paint Company and the Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company sell sample bundles, allowing you to choose a group of colors. They can all be mixed to create a wider variety of shades. The RMPC sample jars contain one ounce of powder. One little jar will paint a lot of spoons. The OFMPC bags contain two ounces of powder. Accordingly, their samples do cost a little more. I’ve used the paint from both companies and both work well.

I’ve got the carving just about finished on a batch of spoons. Some of the handles will be painted. I’ll take some shots during that process and get a follow-up post together soon.

Posted in paint, spoons, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 13 Comments

Sinuous Serotina Bowl

It was sunny and 70 degrees today. We’re still in winter, but this weather reminds me more of the late summer days when I first roughed out this bowl from a black cherry tree (Prunus serotina) limb. It was a massive old tree whose hollow trunk had finally snapped in the wind.

I took a few shots as I was making it and put them into the captioned slide show below, beginning with the chunk of limb.

Large limbs often have tensions within the fibers as a result of holding so much weight out away from the trunk. So I slow the drying with old cotton sheets and check often. With this one, a couple hairline checks appeared on the narrower handle. I just let a little liquid CA glue (super glue) wick in and that prevented any further issue. If you’re having trouble seeing it in the shot above, I’ve pointed them out below.

There are a few more photos of the finished bowl below. It’s 17 1/4″ long, 6″ wide, and 5″ high, and it’s for sale. If you’re interested, please email me at dandkfish@gmail.com. $700 includes insured shipping to you. SOLD

End and side surfaces are from the gouge and drawknife, respectively.

Posted in bowls, cherry, finding wood, green woodworking, holding, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , | 8 Comments

Revelations in Snow

Out of the bosom of the Air, 

      Out of the cloud-folds of her garments shaken

Over the woodlands brown and bare, 

      Over the harvest-fields forsaken, 

            Silent, and soft, and slow 

            Descends the snow. 

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, “Snow-flakes” (1863)

Yesterday we had a fresh snow. People often comment on how snow covers everything in a blanket of white, hiding the mud and the muck. But on my walk, it struck me how much it reveals. Much like raking sunlight, the way it falls highlights things that normally are less noticed; lines in the grasses, the lay of the land in the distance… I snapped a few photos on the way.

The snow begs a fresh look at the pattern of meandering branches.

A puff of white in the thicket lead me to a nest.

Last years beech leaves, papery and sun bleached, brought to mind ice cream spilling out of so many cones.

But what thrilled me most about the revelatory power of snow was this big oak tree I’ve admired many times. I had never noticed that wonderful dramatic twist in the trunk before yesterday’s snow.

Now, if you look closely at the photograph, there may be one more surprise. Somebody ran ahead and is patiently waiting.

Posted in nature, quotes and excerpts, trees, Uncategorized | Tagged , , | 5 Comments