White Oak Bowl — Finished

 

IMG_5397In creating, the only hard thing’s to begin;

A grass-blade’s no easier to make than an oak

— James Russell Lowell, A Fable for Critics (1848)

IMG_5384I wonder if James Russell Lowell ever carved an oak bowl?  In these two previous posts (here and here), I discussed the beginning stages of this bowl of white oak.  I like the result, but I might wait forty years or so before trying another!

IMG_5401I thought the character of the oak called for some bold gouge cuts, albeit on a sleek form; a relationship similar to that of the hardy Northmen on their graceful oaken longboats.  This oaken vessel is 23 3/4 inches long, 11 1/4 inches wide, and 4 1/2 inches high.

IMG_5386In this overhead shot, the grain orientation is visible, as well as the “character stains” resulting from bugs digging around in the log at the fringe of the sapwood.

I’ve posted it to my website.  Time to go sharpen my tools…

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Sinuous Side Panels

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A sea of creamy maple chips.

A sea of creamy chips from roughing out some maple bowls.  Where is that apprentice with a shovel?

A week or two ago, a friend had a red maple (Acer rubrum) tree down, and I was happy to help him cut it up and rescue a few chunks for bowls.  The creamy white wood might represent a great opportunity to incorporate some color.  I’ve been roughing out a couple bowls for drying, including this one that will have wide side panels that will serve as a canvas for decorative carving.  I think I first saw bowls like these in a VHS video I bought from Country Workshops years ago.  It features then 82 year old Bengt Lidstrom carving bowls in Sweden in 1998.  If you haven’t seen it, grab a chair; you’ll love it.  Drew has put it onto youtube and here is the link.  My methods differ from Bengt, and some may prefer some of his ways.  There’s much to learn by viewing the video carefully.

Bengt lays out his side panels around the 20 minute mark of the video.  Sometimes I completely freehand them, but for these, I used a compass to help assure symmetry.  I snapped a few shots showing the process.

After hollowing the inside, and roughly hewing the surface of the side panels, I hewed away a lot of material from the underside of the bowl.  After refining the surface of the side panels a bit more with a drawknife and spokeshave,  it was time to draw the exact outline of the side panels before continuing to sculpt the exterior of the bowl.

Sketch a pleasing curve freehand. Trust your eye and think big movements. Don't fiddle with your fingertips.

Sketch a pleasing curve freehand. Trust your eye and think big movements. Don’t fiddle with your fingertips.

Most of the upper edge of the side panel is already formed by its junction with the rim of the bowl, so I just extended that curving line to the ends of the handles, representing how the handles will curve downward at the end once wood is removed above the line.  Still working freehand, I sketched on a pleasing curved line, representing the bottom of the side panel.  The drawn pencil lines can be seen on the right half of the bowl in this photo.

Using the compass, I made a series of marks along the rim of the bowl, swinging the compass to both sides of center.  I made four, but it could be more or less.  There’s no need to measure anything, just pick a few spots.

Making arbitrary reference marks along the rim of the bowl.

Making arbitrary reference marks along the rim of the bowl.

Referencing the lines that I drew freehand, I set the compass to the depth of the drawn line from each of my (blue) reference points along the rim.

Referencing the depth of the drawn line from the points on the rim.

Referencing the depth of the drawn line from the points on the rim.

With each new setting, I transferred these depths to each of the other three (yet undrawn) quadrants.  This creates a series of marks that serve as guideposts for drawing the remaining quadrants of the side panels.

Transferring the depths to an undrawn quadrant

Transfer the depths to the undrawn quadrants.  I’m marking now on the opposite side of the bowl.

Picking up my pencil again, I connected the furthest points of the blue arcs in a pleasing line that closely matches the one I drew freehand.  The end point is at the lower corner of the handle.  Now I’m ready to further sculpt the exterior of the bowl, stopping at the new lines.

Connect the outer portions of the little arcs is a pleasing curve.

Connect the outer portions of the little arcs in a curve.

This idea can be adapted in a variety of ways. I shot a simple video explaining this process that might make things more clear:

And I see that there is still a chance to carve bowls with Follansbee in Maine next weekend…

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Carving with Kids

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A recent young guest to the shop relief-carving a fish with mallet and gouge

Ten years ago, when my son was six, I gave him a pocketknife.  My wife thought this was stupid.  Within a day, I was with him at the emergency room watching him get stitches in his finger.  This was rough, as was the look on my wife’s face when I returned home.

I guess I was impatient.  I wanted him to gain confidence with tools from an early age and all that.  But the fact is, limited hand strength and dexterity can make it difficult to control a sharp knife for young folks.  Forcing a situation too early can instill fear and opposition, rather than confidence and excitement.  I don’t think there is a magic age for such things; much depends on the individual.

But, in my experience, kids want to carve.  In fact, kids want to create in many ways.  The more we can encourage them to draw, write, feel, build, and explore in the real world, the less they may wish to immerse themselves in a virtual world.  So, when opportunity presents itself, carve with them.

My son’s finger healed, and the two of us made lots of projects over the years.  At sixteen, my son, at least for now, knows more than me, but there are still curious younger kids around on occasion.  Here’s what I’ve learned since that trip to the ER:

  • For young kids, keep the projects simple.  They can achieve success and learn some fundamentals.
  • They may not be as interested in bowls and spoons as I am.  Give them a lot of choice.  If they want to carve Spiderman or a monster truck, then think of a way to simplify the image and go with it.
  • Consider a simple relief carving project for starters.  I’ll explain why…

Last week I had a nine-year old in the shop (see top sketch) who loves to go fishing.  We found a picture of a catfish in a book and drew a simple version onto a small plank of basswood.  With a mallet and a v-tool, he ran a trench along the outline of the fish, not concerned with occasional deviations from the pencil line.  Opportunities came up to talk about grain direction, raising and lowering the handle, and so on.  But, overall, I just let him get a feel for things and make little mistakes.

IMG_5342After the v-trench was done around the fish, I showed him how to remove the background simply with a deep gouge (a number eight or so).  Using the mallet, he tapped from the outside edge in until the chip released at the v-trench.  A few simple indications of gills and fin texture with the v-tool and gouge, and the carving was done.  Half an hour, tops.  He painted it with some acrylic craft paint, but markers work well too.

He loved it, and wants to carve some more.  He felt confident.  Working with a mallet and gouge allows smaller hands to remove wood efficiently, and there is never a hand in range of the cutting edge.  Softer wood like basswood is a big help as well.

A mallet and gouge is a great way for a kid (or an adult for that matter) to carve a bowl as well.  A lot of material can be removed, and it’s safer and cheaper than an adze.  And, of course, working safely with a knife will come as well.  Even if it means some stitches along the way.

 

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A Hollow Bunny

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As children, many of us experienced the disappointment of biting into a chocolate Easter bunny only to discover that it was hollow.  Oh cruel world!  But no worries this time: the bunny above is made of wood, not chocolate.  And if a wooden bunny is hollow, that’s just cool.

IMG_0958A friend recently sent me a couple photos of this piece he discovered in a chateau outside of Paris.  About two feet long, it has been carefully carved, right down to the collar around the neck.  The hollowed upper half lifts off to reveal a lower portion carved into two storage areas.  A careful look at the bottom half reveals that this rabbit has a rabbet.  I have no photo to show it, but the  upper half must have a corresponding rabbet carved along it’s inner rim.

Whether or not one wants to carve a bunny, this piece does inspire some ideas.  How about a bowl with an integral vertical divider?  And better yet, a bowl as a lid for a bowl below, forming a container as with this rabbit.  The design ideas are endless.  I would love to see any other examples of such a form.

 

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Roughing It

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I’ve been roughing out bowls.  Rather than store logs for long periods in the summer heat, I try to do the green carving and let the roughed bowls dry.  Then they can patiently wait for further carving until I get to them, whether it is a month or a year later.

Among the ones in the photo is the white oak bowl that was featured in the videos on layout and hollowing (upper right).  I also planned on a video showing the hewing of the exterior, but I had technical problems that put an end to that idea.  The good news is that I already have two videos on my website that show that process.  Here is one, and here is the other.

I’d much rather carve than mess around with an ipad anyway, and I need to get to it.  As Peter Follansbee shockingly reminded me in his latest post, there will soon be an intrusion on my carving time and other summer projects I’ve postponed.  Time to make hay while the sun shines.

Come fall, those dry bowls will be patiently and pleasantly waiting for me in the evenings.

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White Oak Bowl — Hollowing with an Adze

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The hollow in-progress

The hollow in-progress

When I have demonstrated at festivals, I have noticed several different types of reactions and comments among observers.  By far, the most common reaction is sincere interest and curiosity that elicits good questions from open minds and enjoyable conversation. However, a few scoff openly with suggestions of chainsaws and routers.  Others view it as an exercise in extreme patience or penance.  These look upon me either in odd wonder as they might view a disciplined monk, or with pity as upon a kind of Sisyphus charged with an endless task. Still others simply think it’s quaint.

They misunderstand.  They look upon the great mass of wood to be removed as the main challenge of carving a bowl.  In reality, the bulk of the material is removed relatively quickly.  I spend much more time on subtle refinements of form and surface, as well as on design.  I probably spend no more than ten percent of my time removing ninety percent of the material, and the other ninety percent of my time on the final ten percent.  The folks that watch long enough, develop an appreciation for what an adze can do.  It ain’t quaint.  It is both powerful and sensitive.  When it comes to hollowing bowls, chainsaws and routers lie awake at night wishing they were adzes.

After hollowing with the adze.  I'll refine the surface further with a gouge.

After hollowing with the adze. I’ll refine the surface further with a gouge.

Great cooking chips

Great cooking chips straight from the adze

I shot some video while I hollowed this white 0ak bowl.  Lot’s of talking in this one too, but accompanied by flying chips:

 

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White Oak Bowl — Layout

 

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This past winter I made a couple rocking chairs from white oak.  An extra bolt from the white oak log had been sitting around since then, and I decided to carve a bowl from it.  I guess I’m a glutton for punishment.

2014 Cherry leaf bowl in progressAfter studying what the piece had to offer, I decided upon an overall form with some side panels that serve as a canvas for some decorative carving.  I’ve done some bowls similar to this before, such as the one, in cherry, to the left.  Depending on the log and/or preference, the form can be altered in many ways.

I also thought it might be a good opportunity to discuss some options for bowl layout. And who doesn’t love to discuss bowl layout?!  Okay, you can put down your hand now.

Granted, there are more exciting aspects to hewing a bowl.  No chips are flying around during layout.  And the best layout can certainly go astray.  But carefully considered aesthetic judgement at the beginning of the process usually pays off in the end.  In other words, there is a lot that goes on between the lines, but good lines are an important start.

Establishing the arc representing the top surface of the bowl

Establishing the arc representing the top surface of the bowl

My first step is to establish the bottom and top surfaces of the future bowl.  In the case of any bowl, the bottom is a flat plane, and the top can be as well.  But on this bowl, the upper surface is an arc, which creates a sweeping rim.  I’ve discussed this at greater length at this previous post.  On this piece, I wanted to remove the sapwood that the bugs had been enjoying.

 

Layout on the upper surface of the bowl blank

Layout on the upper surface of the bowl blank

I extend the vertical center lines across the top and bottom of the blank, then begin layout on the upper surface.  I rely on a compass or two during this process.  The series of circles represent my playing around with possible widths of the bowl to allow for the depth of the side panels.  Ultimately the two lines surrounding the green area, representing the upper rim of the bowl are all I need before carving.

Normally just understood rather than drawn, these lines represent an end-on view of the layout for the bowl.

Normally just understood rather than drawn, these lines represent an end-on view of the layout for the bowl.

However, to help with visualization, I added an illustration on the end grain of this log.  The green area represents the upper surface of the rim and the handles that will drop down to the purple area at the ends.  The blue area represents a cross-section of the bowl at it’s widest point.  The red area represents the side panel surface when viewed from the end.  Due to the shape of this bolt, the vertical depth of these side panels was limited.  Different logs will allow for many other variations.

After the bowl cavity has been hollowed, I will hew the surface of these side panels.  Upon that new surface, I can then draw the bottom edge of the side panels (represented by the lower line) and sculpt the underside of the bowl.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Good in Everything

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And this our life, exempt from public haunt,
Finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks,
Sermons in stones, and good in everything.

— William Shakespeare, “As You Like It”, Act II Scene 1

For a couple hours earlier this week, I literally stepped away with my coracle into the cooling waters of the Little Shenango.  I wrote of the virtues of the coracle back in April when I was re-covering mine.  The new skin is holding up well, and carried me along this blissful trail just beyond the trees from the public.

Shallow stretch of the Little Shenango in summer

Shallow stretch of the Little Shenango in summer

In summer, this little stream is far too low for convenient canoe or kayak travel.  Navigable stretches are broken up by shallow rocky areas.  Arriving at these spots in the coracle, I simply step out and walk along beside it.  If necessary, I can pop it onto my shoulder for a minute.  Then as the water begins to deepen again, I step back in and continue to bob along in the gentle current.

I usually see more wildlife when floating than when walking.  It is so silent, and the animals don’t quite seem to know what to make of the situation.  Humans as well, judging by the response of the four boys on the river bank as I floated past.

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Cedar waxwing watching for flies on a streamside branch.

The cedar waxwings certainly didn’t seem to  mind.  They were a thrill to watch as they darted out into the sunlight above the river to prey upon flying insects.  With just a little point-and-shoot camera along, I couldn’t capture much detail, but  my eyes could take it in.

Looking very mischievous with their masked faces, their tufted heads moved sharply back and forth as they looked for their next opportunities.  Their aerial attack maneuvers revealed flashes of bright yellow and red, before they settled back again on a streamside branches or dangling vines.  I seemed to be their last concern and they may have enjoyed the chance to perform before a small audience.

Cedar waxwing hunting from a streamside vine.

Cedar waxwing hunting from a streamside vine.

Off in a blur

Off in a blur…

...and back to await the next chance.

…and back to await the next chance.

Great blue heron in the Little Shenango

Great blue heron in the Little Shenango

I encountered deer browsing on the river bank and an osprey carrying a fish in her talons.  I often see a bald eagle.  He didn’t show up this time, but the great blue herons are more reliable.  I love the sinuous forms of their necks and their almost prehistoric appearance.  Their patient personalities are a quiet contrast to the waxwings.

And, of course, the trees are always there, arching over to shelter the stream.  I love the beautiful, powerful roots of the sycamore in the photo below.

 

 

Sycamore on the Little Shenango

Sycamore on the Little Shenango

In his book, The Little Grey Men, Denys Watkins-Pitchford wrote, “Adults are always so busy with the dull and dusty affairs of life which have nothing to do with grass, trees, and running streams.”  Of course, much of these “dull and dusty affairs” are necessary and unavoidable, but, once in awhile, an opportunity to step into a running stream ought to be taken — with or without a coracle.

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And Now for Something Completely Different….Chestnut

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My latest bowl, this boat-inspired piece, came from a Chinese chestnut (Castanea mollissima) tree that grew a couple miles from my home.  In the photo, it is riding on waves of walnut bark on the wood stack.  I’ve got more photos, including some of the process, below.

The carved flutes terminate beneath the volutes.

The carved flutes terminate beneath the volutes.

16 3/4 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 4 1/2 inches high.  Dwarfed by my most recent walnut bowl, but can still hold its own.

16 3/4 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 4 1/2 inches high; a foot shorter than my most recent big walnut bowl, but it can still hold its own.

This chestnut tree had a lovely dark growth ring that stands out.  Counting back the rings on the log, it was 1992.  Weather historians?

This chestnut tree had a lovely dark growth ring that stands out. Counting back the rings on the log, it was 1992. Weather historians?

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Bon Voyage

I’ve posted to the available page at my website.  For those interested in the carving process, I did remember to take a few shots along the way…

At the chopping block, after the axe work.  The volutes have been sketched, but the lines will be carved away and redrawn as the work progresses.

At the chopping block, after the axe work. The volutes have been sketched, but the lines will be carved away and redrawn as the work progresses.

At the bowl horse, I was using a drawknife to establish the plane that continues along the sides of the volutes.

At the bowl horse. I was using a drawknife to establish the plane that continues along the sides of the volutes.

The vise also came in handy.

The vise also came in handy.

For carving the outer flutes, it took some creative arranging of pegs, holdfasts, even T-shirts.

For carving the outer flutes (a painstaking process), it took some creative arranging of pegs, holdfasts, even T-shirts.

 

 

 

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Start Where You Stand

 

Plane sketch C_NEW

Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.”  Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along.”

— George Herbert, “Jacula Prudentum” 1651

 

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