
I’ve just finished four shrink pots that are available for purchase. They are made from various wood species, which I’ll detail below. All are finished with a mixture of linseed oil and beeswax. The lidded ones all have tight-fitting lids (to seal in any dry goods you choose to store in them) and unfinished interiors. If you’re interested, please email me at dandkfish@gmail.com. Prices include shipping. More information, measurements, and slideshows for each one below, followed by a few thoughts on in-cannel vs out-cannel gouges for hollowing shrink pots and groove cutters.
1: 5 1/2″ high, 4″ wide. Apricot body, aspen lid. A while ago, some fresh apricot wood became available. Never having tried it, I roughed out a few spoons and this shrink pot. Looks great, but a bear to work with. It’s safe to say that this will be my last tribute to apricot. I made sure to carve the top of the pot truly round, then I turned a lid from a chunk of aspen, so this lid fits snuggly no matter how you put it on. I played off of that tight pin knot on the side of the pot with some chip carving, then complemented that with some more on the inside and outside of the lid. Milk paint on the lid, Granny Smith over peacock. Detail photos above. $450 includes shipping. SOLD
3: 7 1/4″ high x 3 3/8″ wide. Birch. Milk-painted interior, spearmint over persimmon. No lid on this one, which allows it to hold longer things you want to access like pencils, paint brushes, kitchen spoons…wrenches? The combination of the two milk paint colors reminds me of patinated copper. Detail photos above. $350 includes shipping. SOLD
4: 8 5/8″ overall, 6 1/4″ without the finial/handle. Base is 3 1/2″ x 3″ oval. Elm body and finial. Birch lid with blue milk paint (mix) over black India ink. I carve the outside of shrink pots at the bowl horse. In this case, with a drawknife. Some fibers lifted just above a knot and it struck me how much it looked like an eye and an indication of a beak. I just enhanced the tear-out with a bit of carving, leaving a subtle image that may or may not be noticed. Detail photos above. $400 includes shipping. SOLD

I’ve got lots of posts about making shrink pots, but I’ve been asked a couple times recently about whether I use an out-cannel or in-cannel gouge for hogging away the material after boring a central hole. I guess I’ve never addressed it specifically.
An “out-cannel” gouge has the bevel on the outside, so a typical gouge used for carving. An “in-cannel” gouge has the bevel on the inside with the outside of the tool straight all the way to the cutting edge. In-cannel gouges were/are used for special purposes, by pattern makers for example.
I understand the logic of using an in-cannel gouge for this, and I suppose it would work fine. But I’ve always used a “normal” out-cannel gouge for two reasons. One, I don’t have an in-cannel gouge, and, two, an out-cannel gouge works fine. In the photo above, from a post almost ten years ago, that is an out-cannel gouge. I just tip the handle toward the center so the bevel lies in the direction of travel. If I need to direct the cut back to the center, I can lean the handle back away from center to lever gently off the back of the bevel. The final surface can be pared with gouges, or with a hook knife, or whatever.
One last thing…In that post link, I show a groove cutter (a croze) made from a thread-cutter insert. I still use that one sometimes, but I more often use one made from a v-tool blade. you can see how I made that in this post.




























































































































